Friday April 27, 2012, 5 miles (8 km)
Total so far: 445 miles (716 km)
Today was a fascinating drive. We follow CA Route 128 north and west for almost 70 miles from Cloverdale, a few miles north of Healdsburg, through the Alexander Valley to the Navarro River headlands on the Mendocino Coast. The road twists, turns and winds its way past tiny villages, farms and vineyards. I am extremely glad I am not cycling this route. The posted speed limit is 55 MPH. It’s only 2 lanes, there is no shoulder to speak of, and it is filled with blind corners and rolling hills. We do see a few brave cyclists, but I don’t think I would ride this road.
The last 15 or so miles of the road, before it reaches the coast, run directly through the Navarro River Redwoods State Park. 660 acres along the banks of the Navarro River. The area was heavily logged in the early 1900’s, but is now covered with beautiful second-growth redwoods that can be viewed directly from the highway.
The Anderson Valley has lots of wineries, including a few that we have always enjoyed. Here in this valley the temperatures are cooler than in Napa and Sonoma, and there are more cool weather grapes grown here – pinot noir and the other small cluster, thin skin varietals. This region is also home to places that make sparkling wines. We stop to sample at one in particular – Scharffenberger Cellers – because they make a sparkling Brut Rose that we are particularly fond of. Unfortunately, they are low on stock, and so are not pouring it in the tasting room today. Oh well, we sample a few of their other wines, look around the beautiful property, and continue on our way.
Before too much longer, route 128 merges with US Highway 1 and we are back on the coast just a few miles south of Mendocino. Mendocino County is famous for liberal views about the use of cannabis and support for its legalization. It is estimated that roughly two-thirds of the county’s economy is based on the cultivation of marijuana. I keep my eyes peeled for any giant stands of marijuana plants, but sadly none seem visible from the highway.
Before long we enter the little town of Mendocino. We stop for a quick lunch in town, then head over to our hotel to get settled. We are staying in the Josh Grindle Inn, just on the eastern edge of the town. We stop to get registered, then its time to head out for a ride.
We start by riding through town and out to the Mendocino Headlands State Park. The headlands are a group of rocky bluffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean, surrounding Mendocino. The section of headlands along the south side of Main Street in Mendocino is narrow and covered by blackberry and rose brambles. To the west and north of town, the headlands widen to a flat coastal prairie.
The wind is blowing pretty hard, and it is quite cold. We bundle up in several layers and stay plenty warm as we take in the magnificent views of the ocean and the crashing surf at the bottom of the cliffs. A small dirt trail runs partway out to edge of the cliffs, and we brave the wind and cold to check it out.
We finish checking out the park, then head back to the inn to get ready for dinner. A hot shower, a glass of wine, and some conversation with the Innkeeper and some of the other guests whets our appetites, so we head out to dinner. Returning from dinner, we are more than ready to hit the sheets. It’s the end of yet another terrific day on this marvelous adventure we are on….
Tomorrow’s ride will take us into a different part of the state park, along the shores of The Big River. On the way into town, we had noticed several gorgeous wooden outrigger canoes being piloted up and down the river. Tomorrow should let us get a closer look at the river and the land it runs through……